Rolling down through the South Island, Christchurch to Queenstown -- Feb 27, 2019

Today was driving day.  We drove from Christchurch to Queenstown, rather uneventful, but tons of gorgeous scenery, some of which I’ll share with you.

The height and the depth of the hedgerows between fields were amazing

the blue in the waters of many rivers and the lake was equally amazing

the snow-capped mountain views were amazing




The closer we got to Queenstown, the more vineyard there were

look at the color of that water!  Apparently from mica dredged up from the glaciers

New Zealand's Southern Alps are being pushed up by tectonic forces shockingly 
faster than any mountains in the world.  
The Pacific Plate and the Australian Plate come together right under New Zealand.

A rainbow greeted us as we entered Queenstown

We found our condo quite easily, and this one is a definite keeper.  We have had excellent luck with our AirBnB condos.  However, a fair number of them seem to be corporate owned using young managers to take care of correspondence with renters.  We think it's unfortunate that this method of the "shared economy" is now shifting into big business instead of people helping other people.  That said, this particular condo has spectacular views and is quite wonderful:





TranzAlpine Railway -- February 26, 2019

Relaxing day today. We got up somewhat early but a reasonable time, and at 7:15 am, we drove to the railway station in Christchurch.  We boarded the TranzAlpine Railway and at 8:15 am, we were off, embarking on a journey across the skinniest part of the South Island, heading to Greymouth, spending an hour, and then heading back to Christchurch.  Excellent content on the audio during the trip, and for the most part, we listened to it twice – going to Greymouth and back.  It was a beautiful trip, and we took tons of pictures – more than I want to upload, but I have a few hundred or so for you (just kidding).





                                           
Harold, dutifully listening to the audio narrative.  Not sure why Gil wasn't being dutiful.

First, though, I’ll share some tidbits from the audio commentary, as well as a few tidbits of our own.

The first part of our journey was through the Canterbury Plains, the alluvial plain created by glaciers eons ago.  Take away the tall, thick hedgerows and one would think one was in central US:  wheat, canola, peas, barley, oats, rye.  Ninety percent of the grains for human consumption in New Zealand comes from this area, as does 80% of the grains used for feed.  Also lots of sheep and cows, but sheep count has dropped 60% in recent years because of synthetic fibers. Result – more cow pictures than sheep pictures!

the irrigate too!




A sculpture of a moa and her baby

 
Lots of cattle herds, largely angus and Herefords

Red  deer -- we saw several massive herds

Very few sheep, but in massive numbers wherever we saw them

Next, we moved into the foothills – rolling hills, which became higher and higher until we saw snow-capped mountains.  We were never in snow though, which we all somewhat expected.  We were in the area of three rivers, plus lots of smaller ones; we also saw a few waterfalls, learned some about the buildings of the railroad and the digging of the tunnels.  The longest tunnel (Otira) was 8 kilometers which took us 12 minutes for us to get through.  The tracks on either end were not at the same level, so the grade within the tunnel was 1 to 33.  It worked because there was no bump or lurch at either end of the tunnel for us.  Whew.






The uplift visible in many of the rocks was enlightening

Erosion is occurring also 





One interesting little (literally) community was Otira.  Originally, the community started with  prefabricated houses, with all houses the same, but the weather is harsh there (20 degrees below in winter with no sun for several months), and everyone moved.  A corporation bought it and created a housing zone for people who wanted to live "differently."  There are now 45 people living in the community with all 18 houses basically the same on the exterior, not sure about the interior.

“Arthur’s Pass” -- Another interesting tidbit is the rainfall. 200 inches on the west side of the country, but on the east side of the mountains, rainfall was only 62 inches which then dwindled down to about 12 inches.

When we got to the western coast – Greymouth – we ambled around the town for about an hour.  Deborah and Gil ate, and Harold and I (sort of collaboratively) bought jewelry.
the river walk in Greymouth

a sculpture honoring those killed in coal mining accidents



I loved the sign here:  New Zealand -- A New Land


We re-boarded our train and headed back the same way.  The repetition of the audio was beneficial, and we also spent some time in the open railway car which afforded wonderful views.
All was good.

Came home, had a cocktail, went to eat at the Pub in the hotel, and then went to bed!

Christchurch, South Island, New Zealand

Heading into the last couple of legs of our trek – the South Island of New Zealand.  We are in Christchurch, arriving around 2 pm on Sunday, Feb 24.  We rented our car and found our AirBnB in the grand Old Government Building (OGB).  The building truly is grandiose.  This time, our rental unit is a two-story, two bedrooms up, one bathroom up, and one bathroom down, along with a living room, kitchen, and dining room.  We’ll be happy here for three days.  Well located too, just across the street from Cathedral Junction where the tram stops.

we never saw this car move, but it's cute and a great advertisement

an old, wonderfully redone building

After getting settled a bit, we wandered around the City Centre.  We found a convenience store at Cathedral Junction, bought some food for breakfast, then had a quick bite to eat (and drink) at a bar before our Tram Restaurant dinner.  Now for the tram dinner -- What a delight.  We boarded a dinner tram, along with about 25 other people and were served a first class, four-course meal, complete with wine, as we rolled gently round and round the City Center on the Tram.  Beautiful buildings, remnants of the Chinese Lantern Festival, and the main hot spots of the downtown area were all within our view, as well as some of the destruction from the 2011 earthquake.



Cool dessert

Speaking of that earthquake – it occurred 8 years ago: February 22, 2011, and 185 people were killed.  Thousands of buildings collapsed or were uninhabitable, and by late 2013, 1500 buildings had been demolished.  We saw evidence of the earthquake, but also a construction boom, indicating a revival and resurgence of the city.

The cathedral then 

The cathedral now

Beautiful old buildings being held up by steel buttresses.


Lots of signs of reconstructions and renewal

On our second day in the city, I washed a load of clothes (last time for a full load, I think/hope). Then we headed out to wander in the drizzly morning.  We saw more remnants of the earthquake and eventually found ourselves in the Art Museum and spent about an hour in it.  We all seemed to agree that the photography exhibition including works taken in the nineteenth century was tops, as was the colonial portrait exhibition.  Another specific work that was relevant was a large Picassoesque painting of Maori women doing a female version of the Haka war dance.



Then we headed over to the Canterbury Museum, our main attraction for the day.  We spent some time here, including lunch.  We all thought the History of the Maori aspect of the museum was excellent, especially since it included the story of the extinction of the moa which the Maori hunted until it was no more.  A contributing factor in its demise was probably the fact that they also took the eggs (quite large), ate them, and then used them for containers. We also saw here, the New Zealand version of paying homage to previous inhabitants of the area (I really like this idea).



Julie liked the exhibition on “Kura Pounamu: Our Treasured Stone,” a mostly green stone somewhat like jade but with multiple uses and tremendous significance in Maori culture: as toki (adze), as symbolic amulets, as jewelry.  Deborah liked the section on costumes.  Gil liked the geology section. Harold liked the Antarctica part of the museum including artifacts from Amundsen’s and Shackleton’s trips, but generally speaking, everyone liked all of the museum.  We even watched a movie about a couple who “wall papered” the interior of their house with abalone shells (called “paua” here).  The couple became famous. . . .  Go figure.


One wall of the Flutey paua shell house
After the museum, we wandered through the botanical Gardens, and then we wandered some more around the Central Business District before we went back to the apartment to rest before our dinner trek.
These scooters are available to rent.  You can pick one up wherever it is, 
go where you want to go, and then just leave it.

Great tram system in the central business district

Deb, trying out the phone booth.  Not sure if they were real or not.

Fountain at Botanical Gardens

Giant Redwood 



We left early to go to Regent Street and check it out, and to go to a locally famous restaurant called “27 Steps” referring to the number of steps going up to the restaurant, but there were really only 25, plus a landing which required from 3 to 5 steps.  Go figure.  A couple of us had the lamb, expecting it to be excellent.  It was, indeed, tender, but lacking in taste, sort of like much of the food here.  It all needs salt and pepper.  But we had a nice dinner, and then headed back to the apartment after some window shopping (and store shopping) on Regent Street.

27 Steps restaurant